Working on the dolls house toilet

I worked on the room box some more yesterday, but the thing that had my attention the most was the toilet. I at first tried to paint the tank and the toilet seat black however when I applied the paint it would not stay on. I think the coat underneath was gloss or something so for the paint to stay on it has to be sanded down. I did not have no sandpaper so, I added some PVA glue to the paint to see if it would stick, this worked however I had to keep giving it coats. The paint-glue still is not permanent on the toilet and tank because if I pick at it, it will peal off. So I have to be careful. Apart from that I think it turned out looking very good.

Working on dolls house bathroom

Right now I’m working on creating a bathroom set. This is much easier then making the living room as it doesn’t need as much detail.

I brought some items off Ebay and I’m hoping that they all come this week because everything needs to be ready for next week Tuesday when I have my presentation. I’m making my own bath because all the baths on Ebay are not the correct shape. The toilet is perfect and resembles my nans completely.

This blog continues to inspire me

I’ve posted images of this site before, but her work continues to amaze me. It all just looks so real. Her website is

I really recommend that you visit her site, you will be amazed.

Here are some photos from her blog.

Dolls house skirting board

I was a bit worried about how I was going to cut out the angle to join the pieces for the skirting board together. But luckily they had a mitre cut in the woodworks room. Well I think it’s called that, here’s a picture of it.

It was easy to use and a fabulous tool to have. I got the wood strips from the scrap bin, there was so much off cuts. So this was a bonus, something free for a change.

The  skirting board fitted wonderfully, and I think completes the room (I still need to glue them in place).

Applying the window and door

Today I cut out the sections of the wood where the door and window would go. It fit nicely however the walls surrounding the window is a bit uneven so I’ll have to fix that bit later.

I also fixed the wallpaper permanently onto the wall although I did not complete this as I needed to print out more. I’m very disappointed with the amount of work I did today, hopefully I will do a lot more tomorrow.

Just purchased a miniature bookcase

I’m so excited I just purchased a miniature bookcase off Ebay. I brought it for around £4 and I can’t wait for it to come. The bookcase looks exactly like the one my nan used to own, it’s scary.

I was thinking about building one myself, but that would take a long time and this work is more about photography then about building a miniature roombox and furniture.

Task completed: Making the roombox

My task is complete. I have completed the deadline days early which is a great start to my commitment to the work.

The next task that I have now set for myself is to have ordered the majority of my products online by the 5th February. This does not include when they arrive.

Another task is to find the carpet and wallpaper for the room box and have them printed by the 9th February.

image from

Finished in the workshop already!

I cannot believe that I have finished making the room box after a day and a half. Everything fits well together and is easy to put together and take apart. In total the whole thing cost me £3 which was a reasonable price (I think). However I need to cut out the window and door, although this will not be done until it is ordered online as I’m not sure about the size.

Here is some photographs of my so far finished room box.

I won’t be removing the excess wood from the outer parts of the room box because this will not be seen in the photographs.

This is how each wall will be removed to take photographs from different angles.

A close up of the mortise and tenon joint. The thickness of the wood I used in the end was 12mm

First day in workshop

It was a great day at the workshop today. I was able to to get my wood cut out and then measured up and cut again for the mortise and tenon joints. I read somewhere on the internet that it’s better to cut out the mortise joint first, I’m only assuming its because its easier to try and make the tenon joint fit to the mortise joint or perhaps its easier to correct the tenon joint if the mortise joint is cut too big. I would love to know what the real reason is. Is mine correct?

Below is the beginning photographs for the room box, I got so busy I forgot to take more.

When I did my GCSEs and A-Level in Woodworks, the one equipment that everyone had to stay away from and not touch was the band saw. It was strictly out of limits to students and could only be used by teachers. Today however I have finally experienced using the machine. I was a bit nervous at first and tried to avoid it, but the man in the workshop, insisted I use it as its a great experience. He was right, it was great and much quicker then the other saw (the name has completely slipped my mind). I finished cutting out all my pieces however I cut them out too small so I have to come back tomorrow to file the down. I think I’m going to finish this much quicker then I expected.

MDF wood measurements

I’m so excited I’m going to my university tomorrow to cut out the wood for my room box. I’m not excited about cutting out the wood its more about knowing that I’m going somewhere with this project. I’m not hanging around doing nothing which I felt I did all last term… but thats behind me and I’m now going to try my best to produce as much work as I can.

Below is the individual wood sizes for each of the five pieces;

Side x2: 22cm x 35cm

Front x2: 30cm x 22cm

Base x 1: 35cm x 30cm

The overall wood measurement has changed to 80cm x 75 cm since I repositioned how the pieces would lie out on the sheet of MDF. (Is this clear? I hope it makes sense)

Note to self

The base of the room box will be thick whereas the walls will not be as the windows and doors will need to fit into them. I need to research this.

The tenon joint will go all the way through the mortise joint, instead of it being just inside the wood (if this makes any sense, I’m really tired).

Plans: Sketches

Mortise and Tenon Joint

The particular wood joint that I want to use is perhaps the mortise and tenon joint. Although it seems it is only used for joining thin objects like a leg of a chair or something, it will be easier to constantly place it in the wood and to take it out. Anyway my model will not be that big anyway so it will be able to withstand the weight of the wood.

I found some great information on the tenon and mortise joint at this site

They are not easy joints to make. The secret in making a good tenon joint lies in careful and accurate marking (See: Mark and measure).The tenon’s width should not be less than a third of the thickness of the wood especially if wood of the same thickness is joined. The shoulders may be of any width and may also be offset when the mortise is made in rebated wood. Make the mortise before rebating the wood. If the top of the mortised wood is to be in line with the edge of the tenoned wood a haunched tenon can be made with the haunch cut back to be in line with the shoulders.

Hmm what wood should I use?

The type of model that I would be making for the miniature scale room (with four walls), would have to be collapsible. I want to be able to remove any wall so that I can take photographs from different angles.

My years of studying woodworks (resistant materials) has paid off and I am at an advantage for making and designing things. Although I haven’t practiced for a couple of years, the skills are still there and I am looking forward to getting back to work.

The walls and floor with be made from wood, probably MDF (medium density fibreboard) as although it is not natural wood it shouldn’t crumble or weaken after a while like chipboard. This is a necessity as I will constantly be removing the walls. Another wood that I’ll take into consideration is plywood.



Veneer Plywood

%d bloggers like this: