Working on the dolls house toilet

I worked on the room box some more yesterday, but the thing that had my attention the most was the toilet. I at first tried to paint the tank and the toilet seat black however when I applied the paint it would not stay on. I think the coat underneath was gloss or something so for the paint to stay on it has to be sanded down. I did not have no sandpaper so, I added some PVA glue to the paint to see if it would stick, this worked however I had to keep giving it coats. The paint-glue still is not permanent on the toilet and tank because if I pick at it, it will peal off. So I have to be careful. Apart from that I think it turned out looking very good.

Dolls house skirting board

I was a bit worried about how I was going to cut out the angle to join the pieces for the skirting board together. But luckily they had a mitre cut in the woodworks room. Well I think it’s called that, here’s a picture of it.

It was easy to use and a fabulous tool to have. I got the wood strips from the scrap bin, there was so much off cuts. So this was a bonus, something free for a change.

The  skirting board fitted wonderfully, and I think completes the room (I still need to glue them in place).

Finally painted the window and door but with an error

I brought all my work home yesterday as I didn’t really feel like working in my studio.

For some reason it took me a long time to paint the window and door, too long in fact. But I eventually did it. I got a great tip from my tutor to add a piece of cardboard over the door so that it looked like the original one that my nan had and not the popular four panel door design that I brought of Ebay. (Do you like my temporary cutting board? I left my usual one in the studio :D)

I tried different thicknesses of card, however I preferred to use the blue card as it was thiner. This allowed the door to open without getting stuck.

This is the finished door which isn’t as smooth as I hoped. I thought I had a finished image of the window, but oh well. I got carried away with my painting that it slipped my mind not to paint the wood where it will not be seen in the doll house because it won’t fit. It already was a tight squeeze with applying any paint.

So thats the trouble that occurred. The door and window would not fit through the holes and I had already applied the wallpaper so I wasn’t able to sand down the edges. My only option was to scrape away the acrylic paint. Luckily it eventually fitted, but it is much tighter than before.

I forgot to mention that I changed the wallpaper because I felt the previous one was to grand for the type of room and period my room is set in.

Applying the window and door

Today I cut out the sections of the wood where the door and window would go. It fit nicely however the walls surrounding the window is a bit uneven so I’ll have to fix that bit later.

I also fixed the wallpaper permanently onto the wall although I did not complete this as I needed to print out more. I’m very disappointed with the amount of work I did today, hopefully I will do a lot more tomorrow.

Getting anxious now

I ordered a window of Ebay on Wednesday 9th February and it still hasn’t come. Looking at my Ebay record they still haven’t even sent the item off yet. AHHHH!

This is going to completely delay me, I’m meant to start measuring and cutting out the window and door tomorrow, which I obviously will not be doing. The door turned up on Friday and I was expecting the window on Saturday. I just really hope it turns up on Tuesday, or I might have to get in contact with the seller and have a bit of a moan. ūüėÄ


Room box…nearly finished

I did a quick print out of the wallpaper that I am more than likely going to use. I applied it to some card which was then placed inside the room box. I think the living room looks good, however in the photograph the wallpaper is coming off bluer then in real life. This is a big thing for me because some of the rooms were originally brown.

The white piece of paper at the back is representing the door, and there will be a window above the two single sofas.

Just purchased a miniature bookcase

I’m so excited I just purchased a miniature bookcase off Ebay. I brought it for around ¬£4 and I can’t wait for it to come. The bookcase looks exactly like the one my nan used to own, it’s scary.

I was thinking about building one myself, but that would take a long time and this work is more about photography then about building a miniature roombox and furniture.

Finished in the workshop already!

I cannot believe that I have finished making the room box after a day and a half. Everything fits well together and is easy to put together and take apart. In total the whole thing cost me ¬£3 which was a reasonable price (I think). However I need to cut out the window and door, although this will not be done until it is ordered online as I’m not sure about the size.

Here is some photographs of my so far finished room box.

I won’t be removing the excess wood from the outer parts of the room box because this will not be seen in the photographs.

This is how each wall will be removed to take photographs from different angles.

A close up of the mortise and tenon joint. The thickness of the wood I used in the end was 12mm

First day in workshop

It was a great day at the workshop today. I was able to to get my wood cut out and then measured up and cut again for the mortise and tenon joints.¬†I read somewhere on the internet that it’s better to cut out the mortise joint first, I’m only assuming its because its easier to try and make the tenon joint fit to the mortise joint or perhaps its easier to correct the tenon joint if the mortise joint is cut too big. I would love to know what the real reason is. Is mine correct?

Below is the beginning photographs for the room box, I got so busy I forgot to take more.

When I did my GCSEs and A-Level in Woodworks, the one equipment that everyone had to stay away from and not touch was the band saw. It was strictly out of limits to students and could only be used by teachers. Today however I have finally experienced using the machine. I was a bit nervous at first and tried to avoid it, but the man in the workshop, insisted I use it as its a great experience. He was right, it was great and much quicker then the other saw (the name has completely slipped my mind). I finished cutting out all my pieces however I cut them out too small so I have to come back tomorrow to file the down. I think I’m going to finish this much quicker then I expected.

MDF wood measurements

I’m so excited I’m going to my university tomorrow to cut out the wood for my room box. I’m not excited about cutting out the wood its more about knowing that I’m going somewhere with this project. I’m not hanging around doing nothing which I felt I did all last term… but thats behind me and I’m now going to try my best to produce as much work as I can.

Below is the individual wood sizes for each of the five pieces;

Side x2: 22cm x 35cm

Front x2: 30cm x 22cm

Base x 1: 35cm x 30cm

The overall wood measurement has changed to 80cm x 75 cm since I repositioned how the pieces would lie out on the sheet of MDF. (Is this clear? I hope it makes sense)

Note to self

The base of the room box will be thick whereas the walls will not be as the windows and doors will need to fit into them. I need to research this.

The tenon joint will go all the way through the mortise joint, instead of it being just inside the wood (if this makes any sense, I’m really tired).

Plans: Sketches

Mortise and Tenon Joint

The particular wood joint that I want to use is perhaps the mortise and tenon joint. Although it seems it is only used for joining thin objects like a leg of a chair or something, it will be easier to constantly place it in the wood and to take it out. Anyway my model will not be that big anyway so it will be able to withstand the weight of the wood.

I found some great information on the tenon and mortise joint at this site

They are not easy joints to make. The secret in making a good tenon joint lies in careful and accurate marking (See: Mark and measure).The tenon’s width should not be less than a third of the thickness of the wood especially if wood of the same thickness is joined. The shoulders may be of any width and may also be offset when the mortise is made in rebated wood. Make the mortise before rebating the wood. If the top of the mortised wood is to be in line with the edge of the tenoned wood a haunched tenon can be made with the haunch cut back to be in line with the shoulders.

Hmm what wood should I use?

The type of model that I would be making for the miniature scale room (with four walls), would have to be collapsible. I want to be able to remove any wall so that I can take photographs from different angles.

My years of studying woodworks (resistant materials) has paid off and I am at an advantage for making and designing things. Although I haven’t practiced for a couple of years, the skills are still there and I am looking forward to getting back to work.

The walls and floor with be made from wood, probably MDF (medium density fibreboard) as although it is not natural wood it shouldn’t crumble or weaken after a while like chipboard. This is a necessity as I will constantly be removing the walls. Another wood that I’ll take into consideration is plywood.



Veneer Plywood

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